The river puzzle in the western part of Montenegro sounds something like this:
The Piva River is known by five names in total. In Šćepan Polje, it combines with the Tara River to form the Drina. The river Piva is formed by the Komarnica and the smaller Sinac. The Komarnica originates under the Durmitor saddle (Dragišnica) and is an extension of Bukovica. Bukovica, in turn, originates from the Tušina river, which starts on Sinjajevina. If we consider this entire river system as one, from Tušina to Piva, its length is 120 km.
It’s complicated, right?
The starting and ending points of these rivers are not crucial. What distinguishes the Komarnica River from the network of emerald mountain rivers in Montenegro is the remarkable canyon that runs along its entire length, with no human interference in or around the riverbed itself.
The eastern cliffs of the canyon are the shores of the Piva and Durmitor mountain plateau. West of the canyon is Mount Vojnik. At the foot of Vojnik lies a vast field. Rare settlements, such as the villages of Brezna and Duži, are located high above the canyon, leaving the river clean and untouched.
Komarnica Canyon is a reflection of the last wilderness in Montenegro. There are no roads or bridges – human activity as such is limited to elevations significantly above the canyon itself, depriving the canyon of its destructive influence. Komarnica is consequently a valuable habitat for endemic flora and fauna.
Now comes the terrifying part of the story. All of the above will become a thing of the past if the infamous plan to build a dam 150 meters high and turn Komarnica into an artificial lake is fulfilled. This project is in the procedure already.
Gigo Bulajić from Nikšić, a passionate kayaker, lives for nature and is an unwavering fighter to save Komarnica from destruction. Can we even imagine that Slovenia sinks the valley of Soča? Of course not. Sustainable development, focused on nature in cooperation with the local population – this is what Komarnica deserves and what Gigo and the team gathered around the movement “Save Komarnica” insist on and persevere in.
To go down Komarnica by kayak, you must first descend to the riverbed on foot, from the top of the canyon in Brezna village, carrying all the necessary equipment. To ride the rapids of the cold mountain river, we use “portable inflatable rubber kayaks” – in English “pack rafts”.
A pack raft is stable, maneuverable, and more suitable for the inexperienced, unlike a traditional kayak for white waters.
Komarnica is not very fast. It is characterized by a shallow cascading flow, with alternating rapids (class II and III – month June) and a calm “green” flow, making it ideal for beginners.
The cliffs of the canyon viewed from a frog’s perspective seem monumental and unyielding – the general impression is more intense than the previous day at Tara River, the primary rafting destination in the Balkans.
Too many boats, crowds loaded šljivovica brandy, improvised bars in the middle of the canyon, all these sights adorn the river section from Bršćanovica to Šćepan polje. There is no such thing here in Komarnica – we are completely alone in the canyon, it is a great privilege to be in a place like this!
However, in addition to all the beauty, we should not forget that the canyon as such represents a hostile environment. The water temperature does not exceed 10 degrees even in the middle of summer – dry neoprene suits are an integral part of the equipment. As soon as the sun disappears or in the case of rain, hypothermia and landslides are a potential danger.
Gigo knows the river and is the only guide who organizes pack raft tours in Komarnica (link below). The duration of the tour is expertly timed to 3-4 hours, leaving room for enjoyment but respecting the environment in which we are. After the last rapid, the water will suddenly become slow and calm. This is already the artificial lake of Piva. We are awaited by a motorboat, who will do the job of the last to 12 kilometers of until final extraction point (most Gagovića).
Refreshments and dry clothes await us on the boat. Even when the heat is raging in the cities of the region, it is an incredible 20 degrees lower in the canyon! This is another world.
Bewildered by what I have seen I wonder:
Is it possible that all this will just sink into gigawatts of electric power and make filthy ritch a very narrow circle of people? What benefit of it will have the two thousand remaining inhabitants of the municipality of Šavnik?
Nature lovers from all over Europe travel thousands of kilometers to Montenegro in search of wilderness, solitude, and happiness!
Big thanks to Gigo, Momir and Dimitrije!
Pack raft adventure in Komarnica: Balkan Expeditions
Tara rafting : Tara-Grab
Montenegro, june 2024
NESTVARNA MESTA. 